鄭睿智 2003/11/5
大綱
一、前言
二、乳化及衍生化對維生素C之影響
三、Electroporation及Iontophoresis對皮膚吸收維生素C之影響
四、結論
摘要
自然界之維生素C大部分皆為左旋維生素C,因此左旋維生素C通稱為維生素C。維生素C為水溶性抗氧化物質,而其水溶液本身會受到溫度、光、 pH 、和溶氧量等因子影響,因而造成維生素C的含量大為減少,其中維生素C的含量會因pH值的增加而減少。
維生素C牽涉到許多生理機能:預防壞血病、刺激膠原蛋白合成、清除自由基、抑制黑色素的形成等。因此具有改善皮膚彈性、促進傷口癒合、減少皺紋產生、避免皮膚老化、促使皮膚美白等功效。
由於維生素C對皮膚有很多功效,因此被廣泛應用於化妝品。然而維生素C本身極不穩定,要應用於化妝品需藉由較佳乳化系統包覆維生素C 及藉由維生素C之衍生化來促使維生素C的穩定,而衍生化中又以Sodium ascorbyl phosphate(親水性)比Ascorbyl palmitate(疏水性)穩定於乳化系統中。又因塗抹於皮膚之化妝品對皮膚吸收維生素C之功效較為緩慢,因此發展出Electroporation(EP)及Iontophoresis(IPH)等相關技術來促進皮膚吸收維生素C,而Electroporation及Iontophoresis確能有效促進皮膚吸收維生素C。
預期學習結果
1.瞭解乳化及衍生化對維生素C的影響
2.瞭解EP及IPH的作用方式及對皮膚吸收維生素C的影響
參考文獻
Campos, P. M. B. G. M., and Silva, G. M. 2000. Ascorbic acid and its derivatives in cosmetic formulations. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 115(6): 59-62.
Ebihara, M., Akiyama, M., Ohnishi, Y., Tajima, S., Komata, K., and Mitsui, Y. 2003. Iontophoresis promotes percutaneous absorption of L-ascorbic acid in rat skin. Journal of Dermatological Science. 32(3): 217-222.
Gallarate, M., Carlotti, M. E., Trotta, M., and Bovo, S. 1999. On the stability of ascorbic acid in emulsified systems for topical and cosmetic use. International Journal of Pharmaceutics. 222(2): 271-279.
Nair, V., Pillai, O., Poduri, R., Panchagnula, R. 1999. Transdermal iontophoresis. Part I: Basic principles and considerations. Methods and Finding in Experimental and Clinical Pharmacology. 21(2): 139-151.
Silva, G. M., Campos, and P. M. B. G. M. 2000. Histopathological, morphometric and stereological studies of ascorbic acid and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate in a skin care formulation. Journal of Cosmetic Science. 22(3): 169-179.
Silva, G. M., Campos, and P. M. B. G. M. 2001. Influence of a formulation's pH on cutaneous absorption of ascorbic acid. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 116(1): 73-75.
Smith, W. P. 1999. The effects of topical L(+)-lactic acid and ascorbic acid on skin whitening. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 21(1): 33-40.
Spiclin, P., Gasperlin, M., and Kmetec, V. 2001. Stability of ascorbyl palmitate in topical microemulsions. International Journal of Pharmaceutics. 222(2): 271-279.
Spiclin, P., Homar, M., Zupancic-Valant, A., and Gasperlin, M. 2003. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsions. International Journal of Pharmaceutics. 256(1-2): 65-73.
Tsao, C. S., and Young, M. 1996. A stabilized ascorbic acid solution. Medical Science Research. 24(7): 473-475.
Zhang, L., Lerner, S., Rustrum, W. V., Hofmann, G. A. 1999. Electroporation-mediated topical delivery of vitamin C for cosmetic applications. Bioelectrochemistry and Bioenergetics. 48(2): 453-461.